Large Snake Cages Style For Snakes

Large Cage style for Snakes 
By Nathan Curtis 
See Snake Cages Diagram

I.Snake Cages Material 

I recommend a straightforward snake cages style - essentially a ½” plyboard box painted with high  gloss marine enamel that includes a slippery  glass front.  Marine enamel prices alittle additional than traditional paint (around $35/gallon), however is definitely worth the further couple of bucks.  It is that the paint of selection to be used with massive constrictors - it’s waterproof, extraordinarily sturdy (can be clean with a stiff bristle brush) and its high gloss end is  ideal for fast wipe-ups.   

Note: don't use alkali or particleboard for your snake cages. each merchandise can swell with the slightest quantity of wetness from urates, spilled water  dishes, etc.  I notice these merchandise swell even once all the perimeters area unit sealed  with siloxane. plyboard that's painted with marine enamel has Associate in Nursing nearly  inexhaustible generation. 

II. Glass 

6 metric linear unit (¼”) sheet glass may be used for your slippery  glass front, however tempered glass is  stronger and far safer within the event of Associate in Nursing accident. throughout one incident with my massive feminine African python, she smashed one slippery  glass door with the mid-section of her body whereas being 'restrained'.  Luckily, neither people (keeper nor  snake) were hors de combat during this incident.  Use sheet glass with caution! 

III. Glass Track 

Plastic slippery  track to be used in show cupboards may be purchased from most  hardware or glass specialty stores.  6-8’ sections of this plastic track run between  $5-$10 and may be secured exploitation siloxane, though ‘Marine Goop’ forms a far  stronger and additional permanent bond.  Again, Marine gamma hydroxybutyrate may be found at the most any ironmongery shop in an exceedingly little tube down their siloxane sealer aisle. 

The plastic track ought to be mounted on a litter dam of some kind so cage  substrate doesn’t become clogged among the track. you'll be able to merely install a 2X6 on the highest and bottom of the cage front to act as a litter dam.  The 2X6's additionally adds  strength to the snake cages construction.   

IV. Lock 

A ratcheting container lock are going to be necessary to properly contain your big serpent among its enclosure. big constrictors area unit sturdy animals whose  strength shouldn't be underestimated.  For $10, it’s definitely worth the peace of mind.  If  purchased from a glass store, you must be ready to request a particular  code for all of your snake cages locks (the code is usually sealed on the set of keys  that escort your lock). this manner you simply would like one key to control your entire area of enclosures. 

V. Finger Pulls 

Finger pulls are handy, particularly once managing larger enclosures and so larger and heavier sheets of glass.  These value around $1 from a glass store and are available in an exceedingly kind of shapes, colors and sizes. i like to recommend  the low-profile styles that match shut enough to the rear sheet of glass to permit it to totally slide behind the front sheet. 

VI. Shelter 

A large shelter may be designed into the snake cages inexpensively exploitation scrap plyboard and  2x4’s. merely attach 2X4’s to the cage wall at the specified height (6”-12”, counting on size of snake) exploitation wood screws.  Cut a bit of plyboard to rest on prime of the 2X4’s.  I like to not for good attach the plyboard to the 2X4’s, however instead rest it on prime so it may be removed for cleanup.   

VII. Ventilation 

All enclosures ought to be equipped with a way for stale air to vent out and recent  air to enter.  There area unit many ways to line up your cage with correct air vents however  one suggestion I actually have for all ways is to situate the air vents a minimum of halfway up  on the snake cages wall to forestall nose rubbing. the varied ways area unit as follows: 

•  Drill varied ¼” holes on each ends of your cage.  The con with this style is it 

is troublesome to align of these ¼” holes; lends to a less-than-professional overall end. 

•  Drill one or 2 massive holes on each ends of your cage employing a drill with a 3” or 

4” hole cutter.  Staple ¼” wire mesh over every hole on the within of the cage.   The result's utterly symmetrical holes that look skilled. could got to gently sand the perimeters of every hole before painting as they will splinter slightly because the hole cutter breaks through.  The wire mesh may be ready and painted to  match the cage. 

• employing a jigsaw cut an oversized, rectangular hole and install plastic forced air-heating  vents with chrome steel screws.  Pros: appearance professional; also can fine-tune  the cage humidness by slippery  the vents closed partway. 

VIII. Heating 

One common drawback with keeping exotic reptilians in captivity is individuals assume that  they grasp what their reptile's necessities area unit additional thus than will their reptile.  

The result's individuals attempt to management one even temperature within the entire snake cages or area for his or her reptilian, thereby removing the reptile's ability to thermoregulate.  For  some keepers, this can be a troublesome construct to understand - that their reptilian is that the professional in knowing what temperature it wants and can draw the temperature that's best for itself. rather than heating the whole cage or area, it's way more useful to supply a good vary of temps for your reptilian. this can be astonishingly straightforward to accomplish by putting in a spot lamp on one finish of your cage.  Directly beneath the spot lamp can clearly be the warmest spot within the cage, the  coolest space are going to be on the other finish of the cage and a spread from deal cool may be found in between. I actually have found that snakes that area unit vulnerable to rubbing their  nose too on snake cages corners, the glass, vents, etc. stop to try and do thus once  provided a gradient.  Providing Associate in Nursing acceptable gradient  has lots to try and do with minimizing stress in reptiles, that I actually have found to be clearly incontestable  in an exceedingly marked reduction in rostral abrasions. 

Spot lamps may be put in in 2 ways: 

1) Outside the cage.  Place the spot lamp reflector hood on the highest of the cage  and trace around its edge, guaranteeing that the sting of the reflector hood is a minimum of  6" from any cage wall. employing a jigsaw, cut a hole approx. ½" larger than the define  of the reflector hood.  Staple ¼" wire mesh to the opening. 

2) within the snake cages.  Drill a hole within the cage ceiling to accommodate the reflector  hood plug.  The reflector hood can merely suspend down some inches from the cage  ceiling.  Install the wire portion of a gnawer or rat cage round the hanging  reflector hood. this can function protection against your snake from returning in  direct contact with the searing hot spot lamp. 

The electric power of spot lamp bulb to use depends on several factors - close air  temperature of area, size of snake cages, height of spot lamp from cage floor, species of reptilian, etc. it's vital that a measuring instrument is employed to check the temps all told  sections of your enclosure before housing reptiles.  As a guide, the close worker  of my snake area is anyplace between 75F – 82F, counting on time of day and  season.  My cages vary between 18" – 30" high and that i use 175W spot lamps for my 

12' cages, 100W spot lamps for my 8' cages, 75-80W spot lamps for my 6' cages  and 60W spot lamps for my 3-4' cages.  Rheostats (incandescent lightweight dimmers) may be accustomed fine-tune cage temperatures if required and may be found at any native ironmongery shop.  Rheostats area unit accessible in homemade and pre-wired varieties  for $4-$5 and $15-$20, severally.   

Heat tape is another common heat supply utilized in herpetoculture.  However, I choose to use red spot lamps for three reasons: 

1) Heat tape solely heats the bottom and is merely effective if your reptilian happens to  be lying directly on prime of it.  If you own a reptilian that enjoys ascent, or is fully arboreal, heat tape isn't a viable choice.  Heat tape isn't to be used  in an effort to extend close air temperature. this can be however way too several reptilian enthusiasts seriously burn their reptiles! 

2) Heat tape solely permits 2 temperatures in your cage - hot and cold. you are not ready to attain the infinite temperature vary you'll be able to with overhead spot lamps.  3) With red spot lamps, you'll be able to establish that cages have spent heat sources  at a look and may replace these before Associate in Nursingy reptiles develop health issues  (before they regurgitate food or develop an higher metastasis infection). 

Generally, tropical boids ought to be supplied with a basking space around 88-95F and  78-82F on the cool finish. a small dip in temperature nightlong isn't essential, however sometimes happens anyway as your home cools a degree or 2 with less sunshine creating  its approach through windows.  


A good rule of thumb is that if you're unable to carry your hand to Associate in Nursing exposed heat supply for Associate in Nursing indefinite amount of your time, it will doubtless burn your reptilian.  You should guarantee there's not approach your reptilian will are available direct contact with such  heat sources! many of us don't absolutely perceive why reptiles got to be shielded from hot surfaces, 'If they're thus sensible at thermoregulating, why do not  they merely move removed from hot surfaces?' the solution is easy - several reptiles ne'er encounter extremist hot surfaces within the wild and nature has so not  provided them with the neurons that area unit necessary to observe pain from heat.  In different words, they do not feel searing pain constant approach we tend to humans do! 

I have detected uncounted reports of reptilian enthusiasts United Nations agency heat their entire area  with an area heater of 1 type or another with devastating results. whether or not a  ceramic forced-air warmer or Associate in Nursing oil-filled beaming warmer, eventually 

the thermostat can malfunction once used round the clock.  Once the thermostat  dies, the warmer works full-tilt and overheats {the room|the space|the area unita} to the purpose wherever all  reptiles are killed in an exceedingly short time.   

If you're one such one who completely should use an area heater as a  supplemental or main heat supply, PLEASE heed this warning and install a keep a copy  wafer thermostat.  These may be purchased from most poultry hatcheries or feed  stores for around $20 and may be set to run at some degrees hotter than the  thermostat on your warmer.  If ever the thermostat on your warmer  fails, you may be ready to tell by your area measuring instrument reading some degrees hotter than traditional. this can be a straightforward, effective and safe approach of guaranteeing your  reptiles’ longevity. do not assume it will not happen to you! 

IX. Finishing 

Nails ought to solely be accustomed assemble your snake cages once it's confirmed that the  finished product can match through all the doorways in your target the event that you progress.  Otherwise, use wood screws and ¾" plyboard to assemble your cage. 

Silicone ought to be accustomed seal the perimeter of the cage floor and a minimum of 6” up every wall corner to forestall water outpouring (urates, toppled water instrumentality, etc.) 

Linoleum may be put in on the cage floor, however isn't necessary, particularly once  marine enamel is employed. 

Allow your snake cages to totally dry and air out for a minimum of two weeks following the last coat  of paint and siloxane application to make sure a secure surroundings for your reptilian.

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